Tuesday 31 January 2012

Hostel life

Planning my trip I knew enough about dormitory sleeping – purgatory for me and my bladder  -  to book single en suite rooms at the backpackers’ hostels in Sydney and Melbourne. I struck lucky in Sydney where the management ran a tight ship and partyers were made to clear up and shut up at 11 pm. On the whole they complied and the only cockroach I saw was dead on arrival, probably because someone was paid to give the kitchen a good clean every morning.

Melbourne was a different story; doors to a balcony that ran the length of the top floor enabling the party people whose drug of choice I guessed to be Ecstasy, to play outside including outside my room. They also dominated the communal kitchen and dining area with a mega sound system.  One glance in the cupboards told me that I didn’t want to use the kitchen anyway and a diet of supermarket salads and fruit was good for me anyway. Didn’t see cockroaches though – probably driven off by the noise. My fellow hostellers were nice to me though and I was nice to them, while thinking uncharitable thoughts about the parents who were probably paying for all this. Advice to university admissions tutors – never believe what kids say about their gap years.

Booking, I’d congratulated myself on finding a place in Spencer Street, where my rail station for arrival and departure sits. Spencer Street must rival New York’s Broadway ‘s claim to be the longest city Street and I was at the far end on the wrong side of the tracks, almost next door to the remand prison and a hot walk from public transport. This might have contributed to my preference for Sydney over Melbourne, which has amazed most people. 


A day at the seaside

St Kilda’s is Melbourne’s seaside escape and my best Melbourne day of the three.  Rattle rattle rattle on the tram that turns into a light railway and half an hour later, trendy shops aside, it’s as if Melbourne never was.  It’s the sort of seaside resort that Britain excels at, but with sunshine not drizzle. Just another seaside resort except for the not very imaginatively named Little Penguin. These normally shy creatures have taken up residence in a kind of man made rockery built as protection for the harbour. I couldn’t hang around until after dark when they come out to play in hundreds but spotted a few hiding from the late afternoon sun in their rock city. A sighting that rivalled apple icecream at the end of the Victorian pier for my treat of the day.  Despite coming from an apple-growing nation, I’ve never had it before and can’t think why not.  Maybe because apples are autumnal and English seaside is not and I suspect he icecream has to be made and served fresh otherwise the apply bits – and there were lots – would go brown. It’s a theory.

Melbourne in three days

Day 1 - adjust to new location, suss out the transport and other necessities, visit key sights - made difficult by it being Australia Daybut nice of them to lay on a parade to welcome me.

Day 2 - Enough city already. Escape to St Kilda and the seaside

Day 3 - Explore laneways (trendy little shops and cafes. and visit sights not possible because of Australia day closures

Best bits: St Kilda, Ian Potter gallery with Austalian art of all sorts, fish lunch at Sea Salt caff in the lanes

That's it - done

Three days in Melbourne will be enough said my friend Sarah as she invited me to come to visit nearby Ballarat. She was right. After Sydney’s mellow charms - a ferry a day keeps the city across the bay - Melbourne was noisy, brash and charming in the way of an older teenager who can be ugly and rude one minute, beautiful and mature the next. On the downside they are putting up new buildings, especially in Docklands, which may individually have architectural merit but without thought to landscape so that you end up with a not very harmonious whole. On the upside, some of the Victorian buildings are fabulous excesses of a wealthy period when Melbourne rivalled Sydney as the colonial capital, a prize withdrawn and still resented by Melburnians. Then there is a huge amount of green space, there is St Kilda (more on that) and there is a fabulous welcome for visitors: a free tram and shuttle bus service was all the transport I needed except for St Kilda, and I could have been tempted by the Boris bikes if I’d been there any longer. They’ve been less popular than might have been because of the strict helmet law – you can now get a helmet for $5 from 7 11 shops and station vending machines. The tram company and tourist information both had people dotted around the city centre to pounce helpfully if you even opened a map.

Monday 23 January 2012

Sidney in the sunshine

Apart from the odd heavy and prolonged shower Sydney has turned sunny and deliciously warm with just a cooling breeze. My last day tomorrow before heading on the train to Melbourne and I know I'll miss Sydney. I did all of the cultural/sightseeing I wanted to do on the earlier wet days, including catching up with the Picasso exhibition that I missed in London. Since then most days I'ce walked across a small local park to Central station, got a  city circle train to Circular Quay, caught a ferry accross the harbour and walked on coastal trails that I can hardly believe are part of a capital city. Most walks have had at least two swims. usually a good stroking swim in an ocean pool, netted off from the sharks followed later when I'm hot and dusty by playing with the waves on yet another fabulous beach.

Favourite days out -

Manly on the ferry, walk to the spit bridge bus back to town. i did this one last time I was here and it's just as good.  Loads of Eastern water dragons, which are rather startling large lizards about a foot long. the love to pose for photos and I will add one soon.

Paramatta by ferry. an hour long trip from Sydney harbour along the river. This was once the settlers' capital and the original governors' house is now a national trust property with reciprocal entry arrangements. Other than that Paramatta seems to be best known for its Westfield shopping centre where, wouldn't you just know ti, I bought some shoes...

Sunday with Kate, starting with couple of hours gardening in the local community garden she's involved in = veg in raised beds. Weird to see tomatoes and courgettes in January and the beans are nearly over - made me look forward to Easter and getting my garden going again. Kate has house sat in Wolvercote and  we renamed her community garden Wolvercote by sea. Then we went to the beach.

Coogee Bay women's pool followed by the cliff top trail to Bondi. Sadly too knackered to swim in the Bondi Icebergs poolwith its intimidating lap counting regulars, but I did swim at Clovelly bay on the way there

Been seeing friends too - Kate (of the community garden) and Margo from McQuarrie uni, Nick late of the Learning Institute and now at UTS, ex-colleage Jean who is thriving at UNSW and living enviably close to Coogie Bay, and Colleen and Mike, friends from long long ago and now mellow in retirement with five grandchildren. (My Jo's dad used to babysit the dads of those kids!). Every now and again, as with Kate's veg, I'm reminded that I'm in the other hemisphere - Colleen and Mike talking about putting solar panels on their north facing roof....

Sunday 15 January 2012

Swimming with burgers

It rains Sydney in the summer - a lot - heavily. Still warm though in the mid twenties and lots of people don't seem to bother with waterproofing just get wet and dry out again.

I'm in a hostel full of young Germans - probably eurozoners are the only young people who can afford to travel now. Glad to have a room of my own - no need to wait for the bathroom .or to use the draughty eating area courtyard for  computing like the dormers. I do share the kitchen with groups of huge men cooking improbable amounts of meaty food. Supermarket salads are keeping my costs down nicely , with the occaional treal like dim sumfor lunch in China town today.

On to the swimming: there's over 100 pools in Sydney and I can feel a mild compulsion coming on. Lots of free seaside pools but not recommended after heavy rain because of the wash down from the city. I've started with the North Sydney Olympic pool (not those olympics - it was built in the 30's to creat work, so like out own dear lidos. This pool is accross  the harbour by ferry from downtown Sydney and right next to the Luna Park amusement park - fun in itself but swimming with the scent of fatty foods is not great. Nor is the $3 additioanl charge for hot shower water or f the $2 not refunded for a locker. Probably not going to be my favourite pool.....

Friday 13 January 2012

Australia's most dangerous

Return to Star Swamp.......where we saw the rainbow bee eater every time we walked in the morning. She (he?) sat high in a tree waiting for us to pass before swooping down right on target into the entrance to the burrow which is all of 3 inches diameter. Precision diving. You can sometimes see the chicks poke their heads out but we didn't......

Bown snake

......that may have been because of the proximity of huge numbers of big brown snakes for whom baby bid would make a nice snack.These buggers kill.  Jan and daughter Kate went walking without me one evening to find one a metre in lenth sunning itself on the track ahead of them. Even though I wasn't there - or perhaps because, the image is haunting me. Snakey didn't move in response to foot stamping and eventually sloped off only when rocks were thrown close to it......

Redback spider
.....one must be careful when selecting a rock to chuck at a poisonous snake because beneath your selected weapon might lie an innocuuous looking spider about an inch across with a dull red stripe if you get close enough to see it. Brian called me to look at the one that strolled accross the patio one evening towards my flip-flopped feet - then he stamped on it. Gardening has to be done wearing stout shoes and gloves. Brian reassured me that their garden fences are snake proof. Hmm no more flip flops on the patio.

A day at the races

Best day out from Perth was a day at Pinjarra races. Pinjarra is a country town about 80 K from Perth. Drive out got me to see the countryside - miles and miles of it - ditto suburbs all one storey cos there's just so much land. Pinjarra has country races so these beautiful horses are not up to the standard of the big national race tracks. But they seemed pretty damned fast to me. So...a day at the races involved finding a table in the shade - temperature now in the mid-30s and rising,,,,putting a bottle of white wine on ice and learning how to do the tote. Begiiners luck rules - I bet $10 in $2 bets on 5 races and won $13, Could be habit - forming.

Sunday 8 January 2012

Nana upside down

I've discovered that the purpose of blogging is to give you something to do in the early hours made avaiable  by jet lag......

A few days in London enabled me to explain to Selam, using her soft toy globe, that tomorrow Nana would be upside down. She liked that idea but didn't quite get the time difference thingy but I've encouraged her to say ;G'day Nana' when she goes to bed.

So after a whole day standing in snaking queues of humanity the final snake you have to travel to exit Perth airport spat me out to my waiting friends from school days, Jan and Brian. I'm staying with them for these first few days - both teachers and still on summer hols so we are having some days out. They live near a patch of nature reserve bushland - Star Swamp - where we walk in the mornings. Used to be kangaroos there but not now, We did see a rainbow bee eater- they nest in burrows on the ground and catch bees to  feed the chicks. No camera of course so I'll take it today and we'l never see one again.

BBQ yesterday with Jan's daughter Kate, her boyfriend and his family. How have I got this far into post without mentioning the weather?  Yes it's lovely and hot - 25 degrees. Must try to get a couple more hours sleep now.